Wales in a Storm: Finding Beauty in the Grey

Precipice Walk in rain.
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There is one thing completely beyond my control, yet it keeps affecting me — the weather.

I remember, shortly after arrived in the UK, meeting one of Curry Boy’s senior colleagues who told us, ‘there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes.’ Clearly, we have different mindsets. Unlike the Scandinavian who let babies nap outdoors, rain or shine—even in freezing winters—we Asians tend to dodge rain (and treat the sun as the ultimate enemy).

Precipice Walk in the rain.

After more than 2 years in the UK, I still carry un umbrella. I honestly think those who stroll in pouring rain without waterproofs are either incredibly brave—or missing a normally functioning brain.

Yet, we had to travel during a storm called Amy. Hotels are all booked and non-refundable, so the trip was a must-go. My mood swung up and down, just like the weather forecast.

Our original plan was full of hikes, scenic lakes, and fresh mountain air. But when a storm sweeps through Wales, even the best-laid itineraries fall apart. Here’s what we planned versus what actually happened:

Our Original Plan

The Actual Itinerary


Much changed because of Amy, but It’s not always awful to go out in stormy weather. Sometimes, the storm brings out its own kind of beauty.

Dolgoch Waterfall

After heavy rain, waterfalls become spectacular. Dolgoch Waterfall, with its three cascades of similar size, far exceeded our expectations. The circular walk takes about 2 hours—steep in parts, but very manageable.

Along the way, we found small surprises in the woods: a money-wishing log covered in coins, frizzy-branches tree, and tiny, impossibly cute mushrooms!

Precipice Walk

We rarely go hiking in the rain. When indoor options are limited, there’s something oddly refreshing about feeling the cold rain on your face—if you’re careful. So we did the Precipice Walk, and in just 2 hours, it wasn’t too bad at all!

Windy, wet, muddy…
When a little sun is out…
Autumn color is coming…

Cadair Idris…Bottom

It’s a shame we couldn’t climb any big mountain on this trip, but even the bottom of a mountain can be worth visiting. We stayed one night at Ty’n y Cornel Hotel that is one step by Llyn Mwyngil. Waking up to mist drifting across the lake felt like stepping into a painting.

Ty’n y Cornel Hotel by the lake.

The breakfast is the best among all the accommodations — not only traditional full English breakfast, but also pancakes and smoked salmon toast!

Hafren Forest

Listed as one of the ‘Top 10 Autumn Walks in the UK’, Hafren Forest came with high expectations. The trail through the forest was pleasant and well-maintained, but a bit short. We took the blue route, which led to a small waterfall—underwhleming compared to Dolgoch. The shorter yellow trail through the denser woodland might have been better.

And the toilet blocks? Horrible. Don’t ask.


Historic Towns (and Good Food)

Now, let me share some charming historic towns, and, of course, the good food I could never miss.

Ludlow

A lovely, characterful town full of independent shops—like Pretender to the Throne and Velvet Fern, and the Tudor architecture that makes you stop for a photo every few steps.

We stopped by the Ludlow Castle’s restaurant Chapter 66 for lunch and dodged the rain. It’s a light and casual lunch and tasted good!

Dolgellau

I was surprised by this stone-built town has so much to offer. The meandering streets cramped with stone houses, gives off a distinct Lord-of-the-Rings vibe. The day we visited was pretty quiet, but it looks can be very busy during summer and the famous music festival Sesiwn Fawr in July.

A Photogenic Cafe – TH Roberts

Perhaps it is the most popular cafe in town. Quirky setting from an old Parliament house dated back to 1886. Some say it was a pharmacy which its multi drawers make me feel so. Stepping into TH Roberts feels like entering another era—mismatched furnitures, chalkboard menus, the scent of coffee, and rows of homemade cakes. Dogs are welcome too!

Best Pizza in Town – Mawddach Pizza

For dinner, we spontaneously popped into a Mawddach Pizza which only opens on Friday and Saturday evenings. If someone only opens 2 days a week, you know they are confident in their pizza—and rightly so. Perfect Neapolitan style, just how I like it.

Oswestry

Oswestry maybe less well-known than Dolgellau and Ludlow, but it’s a great base for exploring Offa’s Dyke Path and Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. We also found a fantastic B&B and delicious Thai food to warm us up.


Welsh Sheep and Me

Wales is a small country, and during the storm we hardly saw many people. What we saw most were sheep. Marked in bright colours—blue, green, red—they grazed calmly through Amy’s wind and rain, heads down, utterly indifferent to the chaos around them.

We saw different breeds along the trip. Some had black faces and legs, others were pure cream. They’d freeze and glare whenever we got too close, then bounce away like furry tennis balls. I did wonder—do different breeds taste different? (An evil thought, I know.)

I’m still struggling with the idea of giving the animals a good life before slaughtering them. Maybe I’ll never understand that.


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